Friday, February 18, 2011

TO-DIE: Marchesa Fall 2011 RTW

Anybody who knows me well knows that I adore Marchesa.  Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig's focus is always upon eveningwear, but they always manage to have fun with the occasion and inject whimsy into something which has been overcome with much minimalism in recent years.  The ladies do get ragged on quite frequently for producing pieces that are over-conceptualized and too "fussy".  I say fuck that.  I think evening-wear is the occasion where you can have the most fun with design, and why shouldn't they go completely bazonkers?!

Something from last Fashion Week.  Perhaps fairly difficult to wear, but it's so fun!
Something Marchesa has always been good at is marrying their aesthetic to their inspiration.  This year is no different on that front, even if it has lead them to some interesting places design-wise.  Georgina Chapman said that the inspiration came from a late-night viewing of David Lean's adaptation of Dickens' Great Expectations and noticing the decaying fabulous opulence of Miss Havisham.  For those who haven't seen the film, Lean's Miss Havisham is played by Martita Hunt and looks like this:


Now they obviously don't interpret this literally, but I love how the hair on the models evokes her cat-lady crazy, and there's a sense of Victoriana in the proportions of silhouettes.  Big bouffant sleeves are married to a cigarette pant, or a long train on a dress is sheer, with very chic embroidery around the bodice.  It's all quite brilliant.  But what's even more brilliant is the way they depict the decay of Miss Havisham: the frayed tulle, tulle that looks like it's been dragged on the ground through some dirt, lace that has the color of dishwater, it shows that this is where their inspiration began, but they were able to grow their own collection and looks out of that, instead of seemingly ripping the clothes from Miss Havisham's back.  I love most of this collection, so I had to really try to cut it down to my favorite looks.  There's a ton of them, but here they are!

















3 comments:

  1. I am in LOVE with this collection, and those gowns are to die for! Pure beauty right there. I love the first gown, and the last one - stunning. All of them are beautiful it's so hard to pick!

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  2. The ninth dress down is my fave! Wishlist that!

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  3. No, it is absolutely difficult to pick. Fortunately I'm not a woman so I don't have to! (Or unfortunately....)

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